Since I arrived in Buenos Aires a week ago, I have been eating pizza non stop.
At the hostel at which I am staying, the proprietor, an African American knicnamed Obama by the local
Chinese grocer because he couldn´t pronounce his name Melvin, told me
that ``Portenos (natives of Buenos Aires) think that they have pizza
down...they don´t.`` I assumed he was being overly dramatic in this
denunciation of the local pizza. After all, Buenos Aires has a healthy
population of people of Italian descent as Eye Tie immigrants came here
by the hundreds of thousands, if not millions, in the early 20th
century. So how bad could it be? I decided to find out by taking a
whilrwind tour of BA pizza.
If this foray into the world of
Buenos Aires `za was to be scientifically
accurate, I would have to order it for every meal, ensuring I was
getting a sufficient cross section of the different pizzas the city had
to offer. My first pizza experience came on my first night. It was
midnight, I hadn´t eaten all day, and I had traversed much of the city
by foot. I felt pretty confident that if they put Elios frozen pizza in
front of me I would have devoured it (that´s actually a pretty unfair
swipe at Elios. I considered it to be haute cuisine when I was young.
To this day I still buy carts full of Jack´s frozen pies when Jewell
does a 10 pies for 10 dollars special). Unfortunately, St. Paul´s
Elementary school cafeterias friday pizza would have been an upgrade at
this place. The crust was so cardboard like that even J. Patrick Doyle,
the CEO of Dominos pizza and star of their highly successful new
advertising campaign, would scoff at it (of course he has more
confidence to scoff now, what with their revamped crust and
`revolutionary` parmesan bread bites (Lori goes crazy whenever that
commercial comes on ``They are just putting cheese on the bread! How is
that something special?!?!`` she will scream. Then she turns the
channel back to RuPauls Drag Race and is immediately mollified). A
bigger problem than the cardboard crust was the virtually non existent
sauce. Polly-O string cheese used to boast that the mozarella was the
best part of the pizza. I never questioned that logic as a I youth, but
as a wizened afficionado of pizza I now see that even the best part of
the pizza is nothing without a good crust and sauce. Its like having
Lebron (the mozarella) with a terrible supporting cast comprised of Mike
Miller and Eddy Curry (the sauce and crust respectively). It basically
amounts to disgraceful early exits from the playoffs (is that reference
still applicable? I´ve been too busy eating pizza and drinking Malbec to
check out espn lately). So on a scale of Speedway Gas Station slices
to Tarantellas with Famous Original Rays somewhere in the middle, I put
that first Buenos Aires pie slightly below Little Cesars Hot and Ready. However, what they
lack in culinary skill and proper ingredients, they more than make up
for in consistency. Literally every pizza I have had subsequent to that
first pie has tasted more or less the same. Same weak crust, decent
mozarella, and a dearth of sauce.
Now that Lori is arriving tomorrow (along with her superior knowledge of
Spanish), I can now diversify what I eat. Perhaps a tour of the
different steaks and meats offered by the city is up next....
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7 comments:
You're like an international Morgan Sperlock. I feel like this visionquest won't be complete without sampling their version of Elio's though - get to a grocery store and find the nearest toaster oven, stat. Also, you failed to describe the seasonings situation. Are garlic, parmesan, and hot shakes readily available? If not, and you start suggesting them, I'm fairly confident that you'll have a statue erected in your honor by the end of the year.
We'll miss you for pizza at Side Street on Wednesday. How bout putting Side Street in there to help your Chicago homies put things in perspective?
I should have included SSS on the scale. That was an egregious oversight. I thought I had covered enough pizzas across the country that would have allowed you to triagulate just where BA pizza stands. for example, you know both famous original and little cesars, and go from there.
Having said that, SSS is just slightly below Tarantellas if that helps.
SSS vs. Tarantellas
1. Pictures of famous people on the wall. Tarantellas has James Gandolfini. SSS has the Retar Crew. Winner is SSS
2. Open until. Tarantellas is 4 am. SSS kitchen closes at 10 on weekdays. Winner Tarantells.
3. Regulars. SSS has Dale the poolshark, rooster, and ian the fourth q brother. tarantellas has annoying guidos who came up from jersey to go out in nyack. both groups are reprehensible so its a push.
Tarantellas gets some extra nostalgia points for being prominently featured in my formative years. That´s why it was on top of the scale.
Santa,
Good point about the seasonings, but should a pie be judged based on the amount of seasonings available? Sadly they offer nothing as far as I know. The best Ive gotten here is some oregano they they put on the pie for me. Of course, i´ll have to investigate this further. it might be available and I just don´t know how to ask for it. I will get back to you on that...
Pimiento Rioja, queso Parmesan, y sal de ajo. Da me mas salsa, por favor. (by the way, it must be hard for an Argentinian to order seltzer in a pizza place. Don't you want salsa? I thought you said salsa? No I did not say salsa, I said seltzer, etc.) anyway, my point was not that the pizza could be judged based on seasonings, but rather an inquiry into the potential similarities between random pizza houses at home and abroad.
Tom, here’s a link to a “Top 5” list of pizza places that might help steer you in the right direction.
http://www.argentinaindependent.com/top-5/top-5-pizzerias/
Any plans to check out the ponies at HipĆ³dromo de Palermo?
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